Dress and identity markers are an important element of jihadi culture, so here is my best shot at a reading list. It supplements my previous lists on imagery, music, dreams, and poetry. Very little has been written about jihadi dress as such, so most of the items on this list are about Islamist dress or Islamic dress more broadly, but I think they provide useful background information. Please ping me on Twitter or send me an email if you know of other good articles or books on this topic.
Mohamed-Ali
Adraoui, Purist Salafism in France
Hishaam Aidi,
Jihadis in the Hood
Samir Amghar, Le salafisme d’aujourd’hui
Rachel
Charlesworth, Imported Religious Sartorial Markers and the Beard: Perceptions
and Politics in Morocco
Daily Mail, “Inside the ISIS gift Shop”
Mamoun
Fandy, Political Science Without Clothes: The Politics Of Dress Or Contesting
The Spatiality Of The State In Egypt
Fadwa El Guindi,
Veiling Infitah with Muslim Ethic: Egypt’s Contemporary Islamic Movement
Patrick
Haenni, L’islam de marché
Mervat
Hatem, Gender and Islamism in the 1990s
Maruta
Herding, Inventing the Muslim Cool: Islamic Youth Culture in Western Europe
Rabia
Kamal, Islamic Dress and Fashion in the United States
Reina
Lewis, Fashion, Shame and Pride: Constructing the Modest Fashion Industry in
Three Faiths
Nancy
Lindisfarne-Tapper and Bruce Ingham, Languages of Dress in the Middle East
Annelies
Moors (ed.), Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion: New Perspectives from Europe and
North America
Annelies
Moors, “Islamic Fashion” in Europe: Religious conviction, aesthetic
style, and creative consumption
Annelies
Moors, “Islam and Fashion on the Streets of San’a, Yemen”
David
Patel, Concealing to reveal: The informational role of Islamic dress
Daniela
Pisoiu, Subcultural Theory Applied to Jihadi and Right-Wing Radicalization in
Germany
Scott
Sanford, “How to spot a jihadi”
Michael
Semple, Black flags and balaclavas: how jihadists dress for imaginary war
Faegheh Shirazi,
Men’s facial hair in Islam: A matter of interpretation
Emma Tarlo,
Visibly Muslim: Fashion, Politics, Faith
Emma Tarlo,
Reconsidering stereotypes: Anthropological reflections on the jilbab
controversy
